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July 23, 2014

Modernist Cuisine Rolls Into Eastern Market

Suna, the experimental fine-dining restaurant taking up residence above sibling eatery Acqua Al 2, will serve its first artfully executed multicourse tasting menu Wednesday night.

The highly anticipated project brings together Acqua co-owner and budding restaurateur Ari Gejdenson, son of former Rep. Sam Gejdenson, D-Conn., with executive chef and partner Johnny Spero, a seasoned toque who has honed his craft in mind-blowing, award-winning kitchens both near (Komi in Dupont Circle and Farrah Olivia in Arlington, Va.) and far (the now-closed Town House in Chilhowie, Va., and Noma in Copenhagen).


“John Shields and Town House still has the biggest influence on how I see and taste food,” Spero said of his time with the critically acclaimed chef.

The Suna format is steered toward those  who view dining as an event, tempting patrons with four- or eight-course tasting menus ($48 and $78, respectively) designed to marry seasonal spoils with avant-garde cooking techniques.

Featured items include an array of raw, pickled and candied root vegetables accented with brown butter sauce, Asian custard bolstered by multipurpose mushrooms, cured scallop and sea beans (“really simple, clean flavors, full of umami,” Spero said) and pork partnered with tahini, kale and daikon.

Spero said he expects to completely revamp the menu at least quarterly, allowing the seasons to steer his culinary vision. Not that guests should get used to earmarking dishes for future visits.

“Dishes will change weekly … depending on availability of certain products,” Spero said of his fresh-first philosophy.

Suna; 214 Seventh St. SE; 202-450-4585; sunadc.com. Open for dinner Tuesday through Saturday.

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