Hear ye, hear ye: Court is now back in session.
Our latest case: Barracks Row trattoria Lavagna.
(Warren Rojas/CQ Roll Call)
Founder Stephen Cheung split off from the family business — the Cheung clan continues to operate neighboring Fusion Grill — to start his locavore-baiting Italian eatery last year. Although he’s cycled through several executive chefs, the concept has remained constant: locally sourced ingredients married to house-made staples (eggy noodles, boozy limoncello) via homegrown recipes.
Current toque Darren Maas has put his stamp on the new menu, carving spots for the likes of a “50/50 burger” forged from seasoned ground beef rolled together with custom pork sausage, ricotta free-range egg stuffed ravioli bathed in hearty Bolognese sauce, a pan-seared pork chop-creamy polenta pairing (Cheung’s current favorite) and local rockfish brightened by a tomato-ginger reduction.